They don't call it The Pink Hole for nothin'!

As I walk home at dawn, a smile cracks my face as the night before replays in my mind.

Never in mild wildest imagination did I think my 31st birthday would be spent in Seoul, Korea. Sure, Europe has crossed my mind, but only as a visitor. Its still sinking in that a actually live here. And, its still sinking in that I will be here for 11 more months. Jeesus!

After I was tipped off by another English teacher and the internet that the lesbian area of Seoul is located in the Hongdae area, which is a popular hangout for tourists and locals. Lots of bars, restaurants, street vendors and best of all--gay bars!

After reading numerous things about how the gay community "doesn't exist" in Korea, it was so nice to finally have some proof that it did, and was small but thriving.

So, I found directions via GirlPorts ( http://www.girlports.com/lesbiantravel/destinations/seoul/bars_nightclubs) which was super helpful, and I recommend checking them out if you are a gay in a foreign area. It was time to go find my people!

I met with my good buddy Matt, and new buddy Marissa, and the wild goose chase ensued. After a great dinner of Bulgogi, we hopped on the subway for the VERY crowded 40 minute ride. Packed in like sardines doesn't even capture just how crowded the subway is in Seoul on a Saturday night. All I kept thinking was: I sure hope nobody is sick. And, I sure hope this thing doesn't break down.

We finally made it, and stumbled out to the street that was packed with all kinds of people, Korean, white, black, everyone. It was GREAT to see diversity represented on every corner. We immediately felt like a drink was in order, as just getting to Hongdae was a trek. We found a nearly empty whiskey bar that played American pop music along with videos on a screen that was half the size of the bar. Seriously. Behind us, sat 3 20-something Korean men, who were so excited that we were there, and that Limp Bizket was playing. I'm not sure what is funnier.

After a few warming shots of Johnnie Walker, it was time to attempt The Pink Hole! Just down the street, we managed to find the place using the online directions that included help like "Find the wavy building and turn right. Then, go up 3 crosswalks and turn at the mini-mart." Well, there are about a million crosswalks, and about 2 million mini-marts. None the less, we found the Grail of girls, and excitedly ran down the stairs, into the club.

HALT. As I just about peed myself with excitement, the hipster dyke at the door said in nearly perfect English: Only women here. WHAT? If there are any men that should be allowed into a lesbian bar, its most certainly Matt. Hate crime!!!! While I do appreciate knowing that women are the only ones in the club, lurking around, I don't believe in discrimination either.

Trying to hide my sadness I said, "Well, if my friend can't come in, I don't need to go in either." We walked up the stairs and off to the next bar: a cave-themed Hookah bar with a great selection of Turkish hookahs and imported beer.

We hung out there for a bit, and then Marissa had to get her dance on. She parted and went to the bumpin' club next door, and Matt being the gentlemen he is told me to go see the Pink Hole and meet him later. So, off I went on my solo trip to the hole. Not quite the way I pictured the night, but at least I would get to see it.

I nearly ran back, threw my 10,000won at the door person, and grabbed my free drink. I then stood back and took it all in. The lesbian community certainly existed, and they were not afraid to show it. It was the most gratifying thing to look around and see women bucking the system, revolutionizing a country that is known for its old, rigid ways. I couldn't stop smiling and was so glad to just be standing in the same room as these brave women.

After sitting alone, the only other ethnicity represented among all Koreans, two women approached me. One, who's English name is Kate, spoke in perfect English and asked me where I was from. We talked for about an hour, as I asked her all I could about Korea, the gays and the lives of the 2o-30 year olds who are drastically changing the country's attitudes towards the gay population. (As a side note, I'd just like to say that I think its TERRIBLE that Koreans have an English name because its too hard for English speakers to understand their given names. We would never pick a Korean name to make it easier for them to understand, why should we expect them to accommodate us???!)

After talking with Kate for nearly an hour, she left with her friend and I left to go find Matt who had holed up at a bar with two Finnish men. As I walked back to meet him, I just couldn't help but feel so proud of the gay community for persevering in a part of the world that only 50 years ago was a 3rd world country. People are so resilient.

As Matt and I shut the bar down, listening to Wilco and waiting until we could catch our 5:30am bus, I found myself happy to be part of the world.